Hiking the Appalachian Trail in Virginia
From WildWiki
THE TRAIL OF TEARS A series of three hikes along a nearby length of the Appalachian Trail will keep you crying: either from the splendor of hiking through two Wilderness areas and taking in the inspiring views, or from that mind-numbing 1000-foot uphill climb you just finished...
SEGMENT ONE: From the James River, Hwy 501, to Petites Gap Distance: 10 miles Elevation Gain: 2,383 feet (ouch!) Difficulty: Strenuous Natural Features: James River Rapids, Summit Views, Variety of Plant Life, Cool Quartzite Rocks. Shuttle: Leave one car at Hwy. 501 along the James River and the other at the Petites Gap parking area off the Blue Ridge Parkway.
"The Toughest Hike You'll Ever Love" If you ever had the inclination to test your will against the best the Virginia Blue Ridge has to offer, boy do we have the hike for you. Located within the James River Face Wilderness Area, this natural "stairmaster" begins at the AT's lowest point in Central Virginia (James River at 690 feet) and climbs to one of its highest (Highcock Knob at 3,073 feet). But fear not. Throw in some truly epic summit views, a liberal dash of spring wildflowers, and a sprinkle of historical curiosities, and you have the recipe for a hike that is worth every thigh burning step.
We left the car at highway 501 along the scenic James River and hit the trail with the rapids of Balcony Falls roaring in the distance and a thick winter fog creating a nice feeling of adventure for the start of our trek. The first few miles go by quickly but make sure you stop at Matt's Creek Shelter. This beautiful wayside rests along a rushing mountain stream tucked into a small, wooded ravine. Catch your breath, adjust your gear, and ready your mind. Ahead lies 2 1/2 miles of rugged trail gaining 1800 feet of elevation. Our goal was the ridge intersection with the Balcony Falls Trail high on the James River Face. With my head down and my mind focused on the next step ahead of me, I felt a Zen-like bliss fall over me. My focus softened, my thoughts grew silent, and I lost myself in the rhythms of the trail. Upon reaching the ridge crest, the views unfolded before us. Sharp rays of sunlight sparkled on the James as it snaked through the mountain pass. And to the West, the Shenandoah Valley quietly stretched into the blue-haze. Enjoy the views, you will have certainly earned them.
Tracking the Elusive Vernal Dwarf Iris After flexing her muscle on the uphill section, the trail spends the next three miles showing you her more subtle qualities. Scenic vistas, abundant wild flowers, and a section of the original 1930 trail thrown in for good measure makes this section truly memorable. The variety of plant-life is said to be unmatched in the central Virginia Blue Ridge. 964 plant species have been identified just in the 4.5 mile distance from the Snowdon to Glasgow watersheds. A well-timed spring hike may find you coming across the likes of such curiously named wild flowers as Trailing Arbitus, Solomon's Seal, and the ever elusive Vernal Dwarf Iris. On our hike, we missed the flowers but discovered some fascinating quartzite rocks. Brilliantly striped with white slashes in dark gray stone, we spent what seemed like an eternity wandering around like little kids shouting and comparing finds, "ooh, look at this one!" If you have the time, or energy, a short 1.5 mile hike down the Belfast Trail will deposit you at the top of the Devils Marbleyard, an immense boulderfield with rocks the size of buses and terrific views.
The Legendary Hunter Archibald "Bear" Tolley You can find some water and a nice resting spot at the junction with Marble Spring Trail. Camping might also be an option here if you prefer a shorter first day on the trail. After a brief rest we continued up to the summit of Highcock Knob, along another insanely steep section of trail. I began to wonder if the kind folks who built this trail had the word "traverse" in their dictionary. It just seemed to go straight up. Near the summit of Highcock Knob is rumored to be the site of Archibald "Bear" Tolley's cabin-- a legendary bear hunter and hermit who lived there until the late 1870's. He apparently had two roosters who used to crow at dawn on a tall Oak tree provoking the name, "High Cock Knob" which appeared on maps from 1893-1940 when it was changed to the current "Highcock" Knob. We enjoyed expansive 360 degree views along the rocky summit of Highcock and headed back down towards Petites Gap through a prominent sag locals call "Archie's Notch" after, you guessed it, that legendary bear hunter again. How does one become legendary anyway? There are a couple of good campsites off the summit if you like that breezy summit campsite experience. Our hike ended at the Pettites Gap parking area where we had shuttled one of our vehicles. As I gingerly eased my weary body into the seat, I thought back on all the diverse experiences we had in just a single day. As we rolled into Charlottesville later that night, I opened the door and greeted my roommate. "How was the hike?" he asked. "Legendary," I replied as I climbed the final steps to my bed and a well deserved slumber.
SEGMENT TWO: From Petites Gap to the Cornelius Creek Shelter Distance: 10 miles Elevation Gain: 500 feet Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous Natural Features: Highest point on AT from here to New Hampshire (Apple Orchard Mountain), Thunder Ridge Wilderness Area, Guillotine Rock, Spring flowers. Shuttle: Leave one car at Petites Gap parking area off the Blue Ridge Parkway and the other at Floyd Field at parkway mile 80.4. A fire road leads .2 miles to the parkway from behind the shelter.
"Honey, Get the Camera" From the 4,225 foot summit of Apple Orchard Mountain, to the Guillotine, Thunder Ridge Wilderness and the majestic views on Black Rock overlook, a visual cornucopia awaits the determined hiker on this classic section of the Appalachian Trail. We had planned to link the next two sections of trail for an overnight trip, camping at Cornelius Creek shelter and descending 6 miles the following day to Va. 714. I lost my original partner to a bum foot and despite scrambling efforts to find a substitute I found myself with no partner on the day of the hike. It turns out it would not be the last time things wouldn't be going according to plan on this trip.
Trillium, Bloodroot, and Spiderwort, oh my! From the Petites Gap parking area the trail climbs (surprise, surprise) steeply to the summit of Thunder Ridge. Great views abound and a short scramble down a trail revealed vistas of both the Devils Marbleyard and the Arnold Valley to the West. The Appalachian Trail is the only trail through the Thunder Ridge Wilderness Area and despite the proximity of the Blue Ridge Parkway, I was amazed at the feeling of solitude. Besides the ruggedness of the trail, and the numerous views, the area is famous for its spring flowers. Any hike between late March and June will yield acres of flowers such as trillium, bloodroot, yellow lady's slipper, and spiderwort. Apparently, my botany expert tells me that the unique weathered rock of the region provides extremely fertile soil which accounts for the luxurious plant growth in the region.
Walking Under The Guillotine The rain and winter fog took away any chance of appreciating the majestic views and I was quite sure the famous wild flowers were certainly not coming up anytime soon. But the quiet, whitewashed world seemed to match my mood and I trudged along quite content to simply be outside and hiking with a load on my back. I still held out hope, though, that the weather might clear in the afternoon. That was about the time that it began to sleet. I continued on, shrugging the cold wetness off as I passed the Thunder Ridge Shelter. Not soon after, the Guillotine appears. At this narrow cleft of rock, the trail actually goes directly underneath a huge, awfully sharp-looking boulder that appears to be suspended by a few, mere granules of rock. There is no option, one must walk beneath it. After taking a few photographs I casually strolled through, but not before thinking (as everyone must) what if that thing decides finally to give in to gravity's pull? I'd be lying if I said it didn't give me the willies for the briefest of moments. The trail then proceeds up toward Apple Orchard Mountain. Be sure to notice, on your climb, the steps that were the result of some impressive craftsmanship in trail rock-work construction.
"Do not assume that winter weather in Virginia will be mild. It can suddenly become extremely cold...considerable snowfalls can occur, making travel and camping particularly difficult." -Appalachian Trail Guide
About six miles into the hike, I reached the summit of Apple Orchard Mountain. Incredibly, its airy summit (at 4,220 feet) is the highest point on the AT from Chestnut Knob in the South to Mt. Moosilauke in New Hampshire. The 360 degree views from its top are magnificent. This highlight was lost on me though as by this time that annoying sleet had now turned to snow. The worst weather a person can get caught in is wet weather that quickly drops in temperature. Here I was, wet, miles from my car or anything else for that matter, in the middle of a snow storm with the temperature in a full-on nose dive. Thank God for Gore-Tex. With my thoughts now more intent on getting to the Cornelius Shelter, I hustled down from the summit. In a short while, you'll cross the intersection with Apple Orchard Falls Trail (see sidebar). After another 1.5 miles a side trail leads off to Black Rock Overlook. Take it. I decided to explore even in my soggy state. Crawling over a large series of boulders I was rewarded with...more gray fog. But it was still amazing, sitting up on those high boulders with the wind and snow stinging my face. I closed my eyes and imagined I was sitting atop some grand alpine tower. A spring trip will more likely reveal great views of the valley. But you can close your eyes and pretend too.
The snow was really coming down now with several inches on the ground and no sign of it stopping. I wearily trudged into the Cornelius Creek shelter area and smiled. It was like my own private winter chalet. The white snow had changed my mood completely. Here I was, on top of the Blue Ridge, in my own private hut, with nothing but the snow, wind, and the whisper of my stove to keep me company. I crawled into my sleeping bag at 6pm and just lay there, listening to the wind in the trees, and watching the quiet snow fall.
SEGMENT THREE: From Cornelius Creek Shelter to VA 714 Distance: 6 miles Elevation Loss: 2000 feet Difficulty: Moderate Natural Features: Views from Floyd Mountain, Multi-Level Bryant Ridge Shelter, Jennings Creek Shuttle: Leave one car at Floyd Field at parkway mile 80.4. A fire road leads .2 miles to the shelter and the intersection with the AT. Leave the other at Va. 714 or Va. 614 parking areas depending on how far you want to hike.
"Multiple Views, Multi-Level Shelters, and Multiple Tragedies" Beginning at the junction with the Blue Ridge Parkway, the trail travels up to the summit of Floyd Mountain at 3,560 feet before descending steadily down Bryant Ridge toward VA 714. Views predominate this section of the trail but mature forest, a unique trail shelter and a colorful local history make this a diverse and interesting trekking experience.
Winter Wonderland Awaking to a winter wonderland at Cornelius Creek shelter I quickly made myself something hot to eat and tried to get warm. I relaxed in the knowledge that I would be heading downhill (finally!) for most of the way. After a quick packing job I was on my way, traveling down the Appalachian Trail in a way I have never done before. With 4 inches of fresh snow on the ground I felt as though the trail had decided to grant me a parting gift. As the sun shown brightly through a crisp blue sky I made my own trail through the woods--nothing before me but a clean carpet of white and a backdrop of frosty mountains as far as the eye could see. From the summit of Floyd Mountain excellent early spring views can be seen back toward Thunder Ridge and Apple Orchard Mountain.
Mountain Tales of Tragedy In the 1850's, near the summit of Fork mountain, a rather nasty slave owner named Wallace Lawless had two of his slaves turn on him with axes. After killing him, they took off toward Fork Mountain with men chasing on horseback. Just over the ridge, right near where the AT crosses, the two men were caught, a rope was thrown over a limb, and the two were hanged. Hiking near there, I couldn't help but think back to that time in our nation's history. How long ago it all seems now. But somehow, walking on the trail, one's imagination can run wild and visions of confederate soldiers, traders, and mountain tales all come alive in between the trees and weathered rocks.
Further south, the AT crosses Jennings Creek, a site of another historical tragedy. Early legend claims that a woman and her child were attacked and killed by a mountain lion while attempting to cross the creek. The place came to be known as Panther Ford. Even today, among some of the locals, the trailhead bridge crossing is known as Panther Ford Bridge. For the fisherman out there, the scenic creek is also rumored to have some excellent trout fishing. Watch out for the panthers though.
Bryant Ridge Shelter After descending from Floyd Mountain I decided to make a side excursion to look at the architecturally unique Bryant Ridge shelter. Built in 1992, the shelter was a cooperative project from several agencies and some Catholic University architecture students. The shelter is absolutely beautiful. Multi-level in design, it has a large porch and spacious second floor complete with a wooden ladder and windows. Walking into the shelter, I quickly realized that this place, too, was touched by tragedy. It was built in memory of Nelson Garnett, Jr. who passed away at the early age of 24. A plaque commemorates his life and on the second floor, if you look out the back window and to the left, you can read a beautiful poem written to him by his sister.
Walking off the trail at VA 714 I was a bit sad to have it all end so fast. I was just getting into the beautiful day and the rhythm of being on trail for multiple days. If you are looking for a little more mileage, you can continue on the VA 614 at Jennings Creek. For me, I was just glad my buddy remembered to pick me up. As we drove away I bid the AT good-bye in my mind. I left feeling that, over three days on the trail, she had uncovered some of her secrets for me. But like any good temptress, I knew she also left me wanting to return for more. "Hey, Mike." I said. What are you doing next weekend?"
SIDEBAR "Falling Water and Runaway Trains" If a three day hike along the Appalachian Trail doesn't suit your interests or schedule, check out the Apple Orchard Falls Trail, located off the Blue Ridge Parkway just north of Peaks of Otter. Several options exist beginning at either Sunset Field (Blue Ridge Parkway mile 78.4) or the terminus of USFS 59. The hike's main attraction is the spectacular 150 foot Apple Orchard Falls. Rhododendron thickets, moss, and cascades of falling water combine to create a wild, rain forest-like atmosphere. You can make this a simple destination hike with a 2.8 mile round-trip down and back trip or turn it into a pleasant day hike or light overnight by connecting with Cornelius Creek Trail for a 7 mile loop.
Cornelius Creek is also the site of a spectacular train wreck in the 1910 when an engineer, overzealous with a brand new, uninsured engine, overloaded his cars with logs and headed down Cornelius Creek. In a desperate attempt to stop the runaway train, the engineer threw the engine in reverse, ripping out the gears. He and the crew jumped and the brand new, uninsured engine crashed into Cornelius Creek, where it remained until 1940 when it was recovered for scrap iron. So remember that historical lesson as you wind your way up and down the steeps of Apple Orchard Falls. Never carry more than your engine can handle. Especially if you're uninsured.
Notes: Water along this section of the AT can be scarce, be sure to note reliable water sources before your hike and fill up at every opportunity. The trail crosses through two wilderness areas which can have less trail maintenance and markings than other forest areas. Be sure to carry a topographic map with you and keep a look out for those white blazes. All AT shelters are open sided and can fit 10 hikers (wedged together). No reservations are required but they can be crowded during the spring and summer months.
How To Get There:
James River 501 parking area Find your way to I81 just south of Lexington. Take exit #180. Take US 11 South 3.5 miles to SR 130 and proceed 12.6 miles. Turn right on US 501 and follow it East along the James River to the parking area just over the bridge on the right hand side.
Va. 714 terminus Find your way to I81 just south of Lexington. Exit on Va. 614 heading east. Follow 614 to Va. 618. Take a left on Va. 618 and follow briefly until junction with Va. 714. Turn left at intersection and drive to the end of the gravel road. The AT heads off to your right (north) and left (south) from there.
References: Appalachian Trail Guide to Central Virginia Wilderness Virginia Appalachian Trail Map 4
