Hiking in the Mount Rogers Wilderness, VA
From WildWiki
PARADISE FOUND: MOUNT ROGERS NATIONAL RECREATIONAL AREA.
By Jay W. Roberts
If you are looking for a great weekend getaway look no farther than Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. Located in the southwestern corner of Virginia, the recreation area occupies an enormous chunk of land spanning some 55 miles long and 10 miles wide. This spectacular area, part of Jefferson National Forest, has been likened to the high country of the western U.S. because of its high plateau and wide, open alpine-like meadows. The area has 300 miles of trails, many of which travel in the high "crest" zone-- where three mountains reach to nearly 6,000 feet. The highest, Mount Rogers, holds the honor of being the highest peak in the state at 5,720 feet.
My hike took me along the "high-country trail"-- actually a combination of three trails that form a 10-mile circuit hike along the backbone of the high crest zone. The area truly is like nothing else in Virginia. As one of the best outdoor recreation gems in the state, it easily rivals anything West Virginia can throw at you and, while I've not been there personally, the area seemed to capture the majesty of what I imagine the White Mountains of New Hampshire to be. Parking at Massie Gap in Grayson Highlands State Park, I ascended the Rhododendron Gap Trail to the Appalachian Trail. Almost immediately, the views opened up before me. The high meadows afforded 360 degree panoramic views of the nearby ranges and valleys while the rocky outcroppings added just the right amount of alpine flavor. Heading north on the AT, I dropped down into a large ravine-like area replete with several rushing streams and damp-green rhododendron thickets. Shelters are well spaced on this section of the AT, making it an ideal backpacking trip. This is no secret however, so plan your trip either off-season or expect to be joined by a small cadre of fellow backpackers, horseback riders, and day hikers.
After passing Scales, a centralized intersection of several trails in the area, I decided to turn back, concerned about some rather nasty looking clouds building out of the West and the rapidly failing light. To continue the loop however, take a left on to Pine Mountain Trail which eventually brings you right back to the Rhododendron Trail and the Massie Gap parking area. On my return trip I did manage to scoot a ways down the Pine Mountain Trail in the failing light. This area, known as the Wilburn Ridge, should not be missed. Wild ponies roam the mountainside and the rocky summit peaks invoke images of Scotland or some other remote, craggy land. As you might imagine, this section of the trail is quite popular so enjoy it off-peak for the best chance at solitude.
Besides the 10-mile High Country Loop, there are countless other hikes in the area depending on your mood. Smaller loop and linear hikes dot Grayson Highlands State Park (a truly magnificent park). Or you can go back country and enjoy the many hiking opportunities in Little Wilson and Lewis Fork Wilderness Areas. But without a doubt, any self-respecting backpacker cannot scratch Virginia off his or her tick list without completing the Mount Rogers Summit Hike. A four mile trip (one-way), it offers no summit views, but the scenery along the way and the fact that you have hit the high point for the whole state of Virginia make it well worthwhile.
Hiking not your fancy? Well, this Virginia paradise is not through revealing its hidden gems just yet. Horseback riders, fly-fishers, bikers, and cross-country skiers will also find the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area well worth a visit. The Virginia Creeper Trail, a gorgeous trail and former railroad grade between Damascus at the southern-most tip of the Mount Rogers Area and Abingdon, is 34 miles long with many stopping and starting points along the way. In fact, bikers can hook up a shuttle service with the Mt. Rogers Outfitters in Damascus. They'll drop you off and pick you up and even rent you a bike if you need one. Horseback riders and fly fishers also have a wide variety of opportunities available to them in the area. And if you are new to either sport, there are quite a few guide services ready to help you out.
Finally, for the snow lovers out there, Mt. Rogers may be one of your best bets for skiable snow in the wintertime. With a little bit more altitude to coax it along, snow accumulations here are some of the best in the state. Combine that with several excellent trails (Elk Garden, Virginia Creeper, and Highlands Horse Trail to name a few) and you might as well start waxing those tips and tails now. Those new to the sport or without their own gear can find rental opportunities at the Highland Ski Haus in Abingdon, or Mountain Sports in Bristol. Call Mike, David or Patrick down at Mt. Rogers Outfitters and they'll give you more information and updated snow reports before you go.
Camping and lodging opportunities abound with traditional campgrounds, fancy Bed and Breakfasts, or rustic cottages depending on your mood and wallet size. I stayed in a cozy little cabin just outside Grayson Highlands State Park. The owner, Susan Tomaselli, is a wealth of information and will even offer you horse back rides if she's not too busy. Her 2-6-person cabin runs at $100 per night with a minimum two night stay (540. 579-2132). If you are looking for a little culture, Abingdon is a charming town just down the road on HWY 58. Civil War era homes, quaint shops, and the famous Barter Theater make this an excellent side excursion for rainy or rest days.
All in all, the Mount Rogers Recreation Area has a little something for everyone. So grab that calendar, block off a weekend, and get away to the majestic highlands of southwest Virginia!
HOW TO GET THERE: Find your way to Rte. 16 off of I81. Follow Hwy 58 to Grayson Highlands State Park ($1.00 entry fee/day). Park at Massie Gap parking area.
REFERENCES: Mount Rogers High Country and Wilderness Map. Insider's Guide to Virginia's Blue Ridge by Chaff and Ritsch.
